Interview Miguel Llona, with Patrick Kasingsing and Danielle Austria
Images Proclamation Gin
What experience from your respective fields helped bring Proclamation Gin into existence?
Carlo Calma: We are both gin lovers and connoisseurs. I don’t like being hemmed in one creative field and love to dabble in different crafts—I’m an architect, designer, artist, and restaurateur (Calma owns Gallery by Chele in Bonifacio Global City). Cheryl became one of my very close friends after I moved back from London in 2009. She is in food and beverage and is passionate about creating memorable food experiences.
What Cheryl and I have created is a masterplan of soil health and culture encapsulated in a drink. It goes by the same research and approach in my restaurant, which is inspired by the anthropology and history of a place. So Proclamation Gin is like the sum of our childhood memories and cultural heritage embodied in the Philippine national flower, the Sampaguita (Philippine jasmine). My training as an architect and penchant for experimentation in creative expression helped us design the drink’s creation process. I was deeply involved in all the processes that brought Proclamation to reality, from the bottle design and packaging to the flavor profiles.
Cheryl Tiu: Our common denominator is our love for food and drink. Carlo is an architect and a restaurateur; I work in media and often write about food and beverages, and likewise create and organize food events, pop-ups, and chef collaborations through my platform, Cross Cultures.
What was the working dynamic like? Which of your strengths played in the creative process from concept and brand to the final product?
Calma: We had an excellent team. I designed the bottle for upcycling in house construction. Inksurge, the studio that did our graphics and branding, took a deep dive into archival material to research how declarations were published in broadsheets in the early days. Everything, from the typography to the recyclable and organic wrapper, was carefully thought out. I felt the collaboration with the team was empowering—it brought all brains and creative ideas to the table. This is how edifices and products should come to life—through the mindful process of play and logic.
Architecture is not always a space. It could be a network; it could be simple, humble, and pure, just like food and drink. Architecture is perceived as shelter. But “shelter” isn’t only a covering. Shelter is also the comforting company of one’s family and community—an understanding that’s very Pinoy, right? This is why the creative exercise behind Proclamation Gin, for me, is inspired by architecture in that it champions sustainability, locality, and the ethos of the community that created it.
Tiu: To be honest, Carlo and I often come up with really good ideas when we’re trying out a new gin, cocktail, or bottle of wine. Our creative juices really gel, and ideas start flowing. Our different professions and personalities (!) definitely complemented each other in creating this product.
What was the key concept for Proclamation Gin, and how did you translate it into the flavor and brand?
Calma: The central concept of Proclamation Gin is providing an authentic Filipino experience. Our research into Sampaguita shows the flower’s ubiquity across different periods of our national existence and memorable occasions of Pinoy life. We drape leis of Sampaguita on our graduates and visiting dignitaries. It’s sold on the streets and outside churches everywhere. It dangles from our rear-view mirrors and adorns altars in many Filipino homes. We wanted to elevate something commonplace for Filipinos to also be appreciated elsewhere around the globe. We wanted to proclaim our national flower and all that it embodies—purity, simplicity, and strength.
Despite championing the Sampaguita in our drink, the flavor profile is actually not floral! To be honest, I don’t like floral notes, so we made the nose inhibit those floral memories. We didn’t want our palettes to be reminded of rosewater or some religious flavor. What you taste in the ending notes is toasted sticky rice, fermented, toasted, smooth, and lingering…I think this is what makes our gin unique!
Tiu: At the time (three years ago), we were thinking of a Filipino flavor that wasn’t yet readily available in the market, and we thought of Sampaguita, which is tied not only to Philippine history but also day-to-day life. As Carlo mentioned during our R&D, though, something was lacking, and so the addition of the toasted sticky rice, which is also symbolic of everyday life in the Philippines.
Calma: Our team comprises tastemakers of the best bars and restaurants in Asia and the world. What I like about our gin is that it’s versatile. It has layers of flavor, taken neat or accompanied by food. Cheryl and I have made it a game, asking consumers and friends what the surprise ending note is, and it’s amusing! Some people even think it’s chili! There is no other gin brand in the world that plays that toasted sticky rice endnote! The umami flavors give me goosebumps every time I try it.
How long did it take to get the flavor you wanted? Why that long? Any unforeseen difficulties?
Calma: It took us three years. From the idea of concocting a gin to deciding our ethos as a company, our trademark, how to help the community, how to make an original Filipino product that’s world-class, choosing a reliable partner distillery, finalizing the flavor profiles, branding, bottle design, and FDA-approvals…it hasn’t been easy! Definitely a roller coaster ride, but we always had faith in what we wanted to produce.
Tiu: To add to that, the pandemic derailed our timeline, launch, and plans to export. But it is what it is; we’re just grateful to have the product out and take this time to concentrate on the Philippine market.
What challenges did you have with the distillery, given the unique blend of flavors you wanted?
Calma: We had to recalibrate a lot of the formulas! This is the first time our partner distillery is doing something premium and artisanal, so it was all a learning curve. I really respected their drive, however. They had quality standards to make a true global export product, and that’s why I’m so proud of the final output. It took longer than expected, sure, but the drive to represent the best of our country prevailed.
What is the value of working with people from different fields, particularly in creating a product beyond your area of expertise?
Calma: I always tell people, stop being comfortable where you are and expand your horizons through experimentation! Dabble outside your expertise or genre and grow! Thinking outside the box is exhilarating in that it can lead to the creation of new experiences, textures, spaces, language, materiality…
Tiu: Learning from people from other fields is a fantastic way to grow as a person and professionally. They help us think outside our boxes and give us new perspectives, which allows us to expand.
For a gin that draws on historical references and nostalgia, the liquor’s branding is starkly modern. What influenced this direction?
Calma: We wanted a gin that would stand out on bar shelves. And while we referenced history heavily in the branding, Proclamation Gin is our ode to a sustainable future. We help out farming communities, celebrate local culture, and even offer the bottles as a building material for new houses. Our way of thinking of the future includes recognizing the past and cultural heritage.
Tiu: Proclamation Gin is a celebration of the past, present, and future of the Philippines. Hence, there are elements of nostalgia and history, but also a very forward and modern design. Inksurge’s typographical approach was inspired by the official declaration papers, which were often bold and direct. The word “Proclamation” stood out as its brand name, while the rest of the information was arranged to balance the design. The neutral color palette used was suggestive of the Sampaguita color, which embodies humility, purity, and strength. The design’s intention is to keep it simple, clean, and balanced, just like the profile of the gin.
Proclamation is packaged with an eco-friendly paper wrap, which was also done in partnership with Inksurge. The idea of the wrap came from having the declaration announced on a newspaper. Inksurge deconstructed all the elements from the label’s design, so however the bottle is wrapped, it would still look good and be protected as well.
Why did you launch Proclamation Gin during the pandemic? What factors influenced the decision?
Calma: With all honesty, the three-year creation process got us a bit stuck in the age of COVID-19. The product was supposed to be exclusively for export. We are actually in talks for foreign distributorship. But then we felt the need to show people here at home that we could create excellently-produced local artisanal products even during a pandemic. This is a time to embrace local and celebrate local. We created this product not out of a whim—it came with a thoughtful, provocative, engaging process, and so we wanted to share our story, with or without a pandemic.
Tiu: We just had to do what we could given the circumstances. If we continued to wait, we would never launch it. As they say, there is no real “right time.” You just have to do it and make it happen.
Given the restrictions and disruptions to businesses caused by COVID-19, what supply and distribution challenges do you face, and how are you addressing them?
Calma: We did a very quiet launch, and all sales are transacted on our Instagram and website. Our partners are all in the food and bar scene, and we are so grateful for their support. We have a small batch of gin at the moment; we are working with the situation as it goes along, and it’s panning out well. Our current challenge now is an irony of sorts; we have received many inquiries to send abroad, which we can’t yet handle now because of the shipping costs.
How about sourcing Sampaguita from the farmers? Has the pandemic disrupted your supply?
Calma: We source Sampaguita buds from different locations in Central Luzon. We sourced enough for our first batch of gin way before the pandemic, so no supply chain issues so far.
What would surprise the average Filipino about the national flower’s flavor?
Tiu: That it goes well with so many of our local fruits and ingredients. You don’t need to look far and wide, but just in your backyard or the local palengke (market) or grocery. For example, Proclamation Gin goes really well with our local calamansi or dayap (citrus fruits), yellow mango, and coconut water.
What makes gin such a versatile drink that it’s consumed both for socializing and as a lone companion for one’s thoughts?
Calma: We are gin lovers, and I find gin a happy and playful spirit. You can play with it with varying garnishes and flavors. It is versatile because it’s clear, has fewer calories, and posseses lingering layered flavors, unlike any other spirit.
Tiu: I love that it’s a happy spirit. It’s perfect to start the night, through the night, or end the night—and you don’t end the night as a Debbie Downer, which some spirits can do.
In movies like Casablanca, Casino Royale, Breakfast at Tiffany’s, The Great Gatsby, gin is portrayed as a drink for men in suits. In the Philippines, advertising depicts it as the Everyman’s drink and a man’s man’s drink. However, the consumers range from bums reeling from gin bulag (drink-yourself-blind gin) to shitfaced hard-partying friends—literally from the streets to the High Streets. In which lane does Proclamation drive?
Calma: Gin is a trendy drink around the world. There are lots of gin bars, secret bars in the whole of Europe. Spain, in particular, is super addicted to gin because the food there makes for the right balance with gin. The gin we’ve produced is good pre- and post-dinner. The unique flavor profile makes it a good match with whatever you it pair with at home! Enough of this pretentious branding of gin as the stuff of Bond movies, Gatsby, and all that.
I want our gin to embody truly Filipino experiences. Filipino is cooking at a campfire or having a pit by the beach to cook your Lechon (roast pork) or a fresh catch of seafood, grilled and paired with Proclamation Gin. We want it to be a genuinely comfortable and authentic companion as you create new memories.
Tiu: Ah, it is also a woman’s drink (as in a Gibson Martini) in The Queen’s Gambit! Proclamation can be enjoyed by anyone, regardless of sex. Secondly, the impression one might get that, “Oh, it’s Sampaguita, it’s floral… I don’t like floral.” It’s not. It’s floral on the nose, but the taste profile is smooth and balanced and is best enjoyed neat or on the rocks, which is my preferred way to savor the toasted sticky rice aftertaste.
How big is the local gin market? Do you see the same kind of boom as craft beer happening with gin?
Calma: The biggest consumers globally ranked are Spain, Belgium, Netherlands, and the United Kingdom. These countries comprised our initial target market. But, even before the pandemic, the Philippines has been catching the love for gin. Some cool gin brands in Asia capitalize on the exotic flavors our continent has on offer. For me, though, gin will never be a fad. It is that happy spirit that foodies, chefs, and mixologists will continue to pair with our dining experiences.
What factors helped you decide on the community you wanted to work with and help?
Calma: It was very organic. It felt like an architectural project. We wanted this local product, and when we contacted the LGU and met the community—the rest is history.
What are your hopes for the brand? Will you be experimenting with other spirits eventually?
Calma: We want to achieve our initial plan to distribute in the Asian and European markets. What we didn’t foresee is the significant interest in the USA. We made the bottle 700 ml for Asia and Europe, but there is interest from the USA, demanding 750 ml bottles. We have other ideas to grow our brand, but we want to focus on Proclamation Gin for now.
While the pandemic caused businesses and F&B brands to shutter, it has also led to discerning individuals demanding higher-quality standards and service. How do you meet the demand despite the constraints of COVID-19?
Calma: I am a restaurateur and what I want to focus on now goes beyond the effects of the pandemic, as it will pass. The F&B community needs to focus on how to further the discourse on food waste, composting, local sourcing, and sharing knowledge in food production.
Tiu: Since gin is a beverage, we cannot compromise quality. Our consumers’ health and safety are the most critical priority; hence, we got FDA approval. A bottle is priced at P 3,000 (USD 60) for a reason—we didn’t take any shortcuts or make do with low-quality ingredients. For the launch, we made sure to do everything ourselves, from handwriting the bottle (Carlo!) to social media, responding to queries, etc. Yes, we have to work with limitations, but the pandemic can’t be an “excuse” to not give or be 100 percent.
As a globetrotter and culinary connoisseur, Cheryl, can you tell how other cultures and countries perceive Filipino food, and how these observations may have shaped how you conceptualized and marketed Proclamation Gin?
Tiu: So what I’m learning is that different cities and different countries have different levels of exposure to Filipino food, depending on the Filipino population in that city or if they had a Filipino associate or best friend. Some cities and countries are knowledgeable about kamayan (eating by hand) and regional Filipino cooking—but others are only learning about adobo (a popular Filipino viand)and ube (a purple sweet potato) as in, ube cake, ube ice cream, etc. But regardless of level, the reactions have generally been positive. People enjoy Filipino food and are curious to learn more.
While creating Proclamation, though, since we were big fans of gins, cocktails, wines, and beverages, we were more of, “What would WE drink?” And what flavor could be symbolic of the Philippines yet enjoyed by most everyone? We wanted something world-class that could be exported. It would be a great pasalubong (a gift or souvenir) and dispel misconceptions out there about Filipino food, beverages, culture, and products.
If you could pour Proclamation Gin for any personality, who would it be?
Calma: I would love to pour Proclamation for her Majesty the Queen—she would know what good gin is all about. The Queen is said to take a cocktail with two parts Dubonnet to one part gin with a slice of lemon and lots of ice. She calls it the “Zaza Cocktail.”
Tiu: I’d pour it for anyone who has dissed or “yucked” Filipino food—as a blind taste. Afterward, I’d tell them, FYI, this is a Filipino gin made by Filipinos in the Philippines. There is nothing yucky about our food and culture. •
Pour one out for Filipino ingenuity and flavor with proclamationgin.com
Miguel Llona writes stories in his spare time, but none of his work has been published yet. He won’t stop trying, though. He is a former managing editor at BluPrint magazine and is currently a freelance writer until something good comes along.
